John Galliano presented his first collection in 1984

John Galliano presented his first collection in 1984; a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins, London. His first show was based on Les Incroyables et Merveilleuses ( the unbelievables, and the marvelous ones). Fashion as anti-Rebellion. They were loyalists, literally roving bands of angry young dandies, looking fabulous, and mocking the new Bourgeoisie. They hated the new regime; they hated Democracy & the Republic. Democracy is so boring. They didn't accept the new Bourgeois conformity of the French Republic, that dictated a new morality based on phony concepts of  equality. People aren't equal; why must everyone pretend.They were not dependent on the market for their survival, nor cared what people thought. John Galliano's first collection set the stage for his historical fashion repertoire that is unparalleled.

John Galliano inspirational muse for his 2011 spring/summer collection was Maria Lani, the magic character from the 20's-30's who charmed artists like Matisse, Chagall or Leger who painted her portrait.

Jean Cocteau once said of her: "Every time I look away she changes... What a hypnotic force the woman has." Oh, Jean Cocteau know one today references this genius. Jean Cocteau set the standards, that none today can't match. Bow in reverence.

John Galliano's SS11 collection looked liked it was a reprint from the fashion of the '20s & '30s. The hair and make-up especially looked retrograde '20s chic. The make-up and hair a combination l'ancien regime meets Weimar Germany. Bird nest hair, white powdered faces, debauched black lips. Depraved eye shadow.

John Galliano's models had that eerie German Expressionist decadent aesthetic. It's a look of dissolution. Weimar Germany was dissolute. Marked by indulgence of things such as drink, and promiscuous sex, and other degrading aspects of human nature that are now in so in vogue in western society. Weimar Germany was  dissolute. Espionage, and intrigue abounded.