When I opened the program notes for the Dennis Basso Fall/Winter 2011 show, the first word I saw was “haberdashery.” So I knew we were in for something good.
But as the show progressed I quickly realized that one word couldn’t begin to fully describe the collection. The clothes I saw today at Lincoln Center communicated power, confidence and feline aggression–a conquoring lioness or snow leopard surveying her realm could hardly look more regal than Basso’s women did today.
In his opening notes Basso says the collection is an interpretation of men’s haberdashery. Indeed, several of his pieces were cashmeres woven into dresses, skirts, and jackets, and the hooded anoraks, flared vests and hand-embroidered chiffons all evoked that skill.
The furs were stunning: dyed Russian sable in smoke, khaki and graphite; lynx, kidassia, fox, broadtail and chinchilla in spice tones. Embroidered silk with crocodile trim boldly framed the shouldlers, head and waist; a hand-knit black cashmere halter top with embroidered evening skirt was the show finale.
Each of the 42 looks in the collection emphasised a greater point–the sillhouette–and to great effect. Halfway through the show I glanced over at the faces of front-row viewers and saw on them expressions of excitement and wonder. Several young women sat in open-mouth awe.
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