If you missed the last two decades in fashion, here’s your chance to catch up. “The Idealized History of Contemporary Fashion Vol. 2,” the second of a two-part exhibition that looks back at contemporary fashion history, runs through May 8 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs .
The curators of the show, Olivier Saillard and Bernadette Caille, have chosen to celebrate the works of 30 creators, working for renowned houses or in their own name. The result is a vibrant array of 150 selections, as well as the photos and videos of the most emblematic designs and moments of 20 years of collections.
The first volume of this project, on show earlier this year, reassessed the trends of the 1970s, known as the “decade that taste forgot,” and of the 1980s, marked by an explosion of glamor and creativity. Following this period of glitz, the 1990s saw fashion grow more mature, cerebral and business-oriented; globalization brought a new professional side to the industry.
“By this point, to be a designer is also to be a businessman,” Mr. Saillard said.
Global tragedies in the 2000s darkened the excitement of the new century. The fashion world felt the effects of these events, which forced the industry to opt for discretion over extravagance. “The 2000s seemed to opted for a rather back-to-basics approach,” Ms. Caille said.
The show celebrates the work of several groups of designers. The Belgian School, led by Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, put theier stamp on fashion with a conceptual and radical approach, loaded with originality and delicacy. The Japanese modernism of Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto gained momentum. And the minimalist designs of Adeline André and Helmut Lang contrasted with the provocative and over-the-top designs of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood of the English School.
The exhibition closes with emblematic creations by Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, who both perfectly exemplify sophistication with their quasi-scientific approach to fashion. “They both perpetuate the tradition and excellence of their respective house,” Ms. Caille said, “with exquisite craftsmanship in their couture collections.”
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